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Oslo, Norway

A perfect mix of culture and nature.

By Tom Dorsz

December 12^th, 2025

After months of planning, my son and I finally set off to explore the historic and beautiful city of Oslo in early March. I arrived from Lofoten, Norway, while Tommy flew in from Baltimore, Maryland. To my surprise, the city wasn’t nearly as cold as I expected. Little snow and mild weather made getting around a breeze.

We chose to rent a waterfront apartment through VRBO in the Tjuvholmen neighborhood rather than staying in a hotel. It was far more comfortable, cost-effective, and ideally located. Within walking distance, we had trams, restaurants, shops, and major attractions like Akershus Castle, the Oslo Opera House, Karl Johans Gate (the city’s bustling main street), and the Nobel Peace Center. If you’re visiting Oslo, I highly recommend Tjuvholmen; it feels like a small city within the larger city and offers easy access to the entire promenade along the Oslofjord.

The neighborhood, on a peninsula extending from Aker Brygge, is beautifully developed, with modern architecture, a busy harbor, and a waterfront perfect for strolling while taking in the views.

Oslo itself is over 1,000 years old, blending historic charm with modern design seamlessly. Another bonus for English-speaking travelers: nearly all Norwegians speak English, thanks to compulsory language education from the first to the 11th grade, making it easy to navigate the city and connect with locals. We packed a lot into three days, but we easily could’ve used more time.

TJUVHOLMEN

It was a pleasant surprise to discover canals, walkways, bridges, and a great selection of restaurants woven throughout the Tjuvholmen neighborhood. We even came across bathhouses nearby, where locals warmed up in saunas before plunging into the icy fjord, a unique tradition that’s definitely part of Oslo’s charm.

🍫 Another highlight was spotting the Freiauret, the famous neon sign advertising Freia, Norway’s beloved chocolate brand. Perched above Egertorget Square on Karl Johans gate, it’s one of the city’s most recognizable landmarks and truly Oslo’s sweet icon.

And of course, no trip to Oslo is complete without a stop at the Nobel Peace Center.

Just behind our apartment in Tjuvholmen, we spotted the Royal Yacht Norge. This historic ship was a gift from the people of Norway to King Haakon VII in 1947, following a nationwide fundraising campaign. Although it belongs to His Majesty, the yacht is crewed and maintained by the Royal Norwegian Navy. Today, the King still uses it for regattas, serving as a base during major yacht races, and in recent years, he’s competed in several European competitions.

It's a pleasant surprise to discover canals, walkways, and bridges in this neighborhood.

🥵 🥶 For Norwegians, pairing a steaming sauna with a plunge into icy seawater isn’t a trend—it’s a way of life. Scattered along the shore are little bathhouses where brave swimmers jump into the freezing fjord before retreating into the welcoming heat of a sauna. The ritual boosts health, fosters connection, and challenges both body and spirit. Oslo’s waterfront is dotted with floating saunas you can rent, especially near the Opera House and SALT, each fitting up to ten people.

Nope, I didn't try it. Reservations were a week out ;-)

OSLO OPERA HOUSE

One of the most eye-catching buildings in Oslo is the Oslo Opera House, home to The Norwegian Opera and Ballet—Norway’s largest music and theater institution. Its mission spans opera and ballet to concerts and dance theatre, making it one of the city's cultural centers.

The building itself is a modern masterpiece. Designed by the firm Snøhetta, it was created to resemble a floating iceberg, with clean white angles and a sloping roof that appears to rise straight out of the Oslofjord. Construction finished in 2007, and the Opera House opened to the public the following year. One of the best parts is that you can walk right up onto the roof for wide, panoramic views of the harbor—something we made sure to do.

From certain angles, the building almost appears to float above the city.

Be ready, parts of the climb gets pretty steep but at least it's flat with no steps.

Here you really get a sense of all the different angles that make up this building. Earlier, kids were even riding their bikes down the ramp behind me!

VIGELAND

Vigeland Park, located inside Oslo’s Frogner Park, is open 24 hours a day, so we hopped on the tram early in the morning, even though the weather was cold, gray, and downright gloomy. But the moment we stepped through the gates…wow. The dreary day didn’t dull the impact of this place one bit. I was utterly blown away by the park's size and sheer originality.

Home to more than 212 bronze, iron, and granite sculptures created by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland, it’s the largest sculpture park in the world dedicated to a single artist. The works explore every stage of human life, children, parents, and elders, captured in expressive, sometimes puzzling poses. Vigeland chose to portray all the figures without clothing to highlight the universality of human experience, stripping away class, time, and identity so the emotions stand front and center.

I’m convinced that if I lived in Oslo and visited this park every day, I’d spot something new each time, especially as the light and seasons change. It's the kind of place that grows on you with every return.

For more details on the park and its composition, visit the Vigeland Museum and Park website.

I'm presenting the photos below in black and white to shift the focus away from color, highlighting the sculpture's composition, light, and shadow, and the essence of each subject.

A sculpture that is often referred to as "Motherhood" or "Woman with Two Children riding on her Back."

Carved from a single block of granite, the Monolith features 121 intertwined figures spiraling upward—a dramatic reflection of humanity’s struggles, hopes, and shared climb toward something greater.

Sinnataggen, “The Angry Boy,” is one of Vigeland Park’s most beloved sculptures, capturing a toddler’s full tantrum and featuring a shiny hand polished by visitors seeking good luck. seeking good luck.

“Two Old Women” is a granite sculpture on the Monolith Plateau showing two elderly women sitting close together, their faces marked by age and their posture suggesting comfort and quiet companionship. Adobe/Vladislav Gajic

NORDMARKA

Just 11 km from Tjuvholmen, Holmenkollen sits high above the city, and what a beautiful uphill drive! The area marks the gateway to Nordmarka, a huge forested playground stretching across northern Oslo. In winter, it’s all about cross-country skiing, and in summer, you’ll find endless walking trails. Popular spots like Tryvann and Frognerseteren make great starting points for hikes year-round.

⛷️ The Holmenkollbakken ski jump hosted the 1952 Winter Olympics and the FIS Nordic World Ski Championships in 1930, 1966, 1982, and 2011. It also features the Holmenkollen Ski Museum. You can see this massive ski jump from downtown Oslo.

Not far from Holmenkollen, we made a quick stop at the Oslo Ski School, where the slopes were buzzing with kids learning and having fun. It also happens to be the oldest children’s ski school in the world...how cool is that!

At Gratishaugen, Kollentrollet is a troll sculpture created by Norwegian sculptor Nils Aas, overlooking the Holmenkollen Ski Jump Arena.

At the top of Holmenkollen, Frognerseteren is a picturesque restaurant with stunning panoramic views of Oslo and the Oslofjord. It’s a favorite stop along the nearby cross-country ski trails, and the building itself is a showstopper—built in traditional Dragestil (dragon style) with exposed timber walls, dragon-head accents, and steeply pitched roofs. Inside, large fireplaces keep you warm and cozy on a cold winter day, making it the perfect spot to pause for lunch and soak in the scenery.

We tried the buffet, which features classic Norwegian dishes and a tempting selection of pastries and desserts. Sitting by the Scandinavian open fireplace, with its solid soapstone hearth radiating steady heat, made the meal even more enjoyable. It was the perfect cozy break after exploring the trails.

Just across the road from Frognerseteren Restaurant, you’ll find a beautifully preserved re-creation of a traditional Norwegian farm, complete with classic sod roofs. Turf has been used on Norwegian homes for centuries, not just for its rustic charm but for its practicality. The thick, heavy layers help stabilize the structure, provide excellent insulation, and hold up incredibly well in harsh weather.

🎿 The area isn’t just picturesque—it’s also an ideal spot to jump onto the cross-country ski trail that runs right in front of the farm. Skiing uphill here is no joke, and this trail has plenty of climbs to get your heart pumping! It’s a great way to experience the landscape the way locals have for generations.

The Scandic Holmenkollen Park Hotel sits high above Oslo, looking like a palace pulled straight from a Norwegian fairytale. From its mountaintop perch, you get incredible views of the city, the fjord, and the endless stretch of forest surrounding it. The building dates back to 1894, when it was initially built as a sanatorium for tuberculosis patients. After the nearby Holmenkollen Turisthotell burned down in 1914, it was transformed into the hotel you see today. Designed by architect Balthazar Lange in traditional Dragestil (dragon style), it’s full of dramatic rooflines, carved wooden details, and all the charm you’d expect from this iconic architectural style.

The hotel has been expanded and renovated several times over the years, including a significant update in 2022. We didn’t stay here, but we did duck into the restaurant—and it was absolutely worth the detour.

There are several dining options on site, from the Holmenkollen Bistro—great for waffles or a relaxed dinner—to restaurants that spotlight local Norwegian flavors, as well as a cozy bar with sweeping views. Guests also get a complimentary breakfast, and honestly, you just can’t beat the surroundings.

BYGDØY

Bygdøy is a beautiful peninsula on Oslo’s west side and home to several of the museums we visited, Fram, Kon-Tiki, and the Norsk Folkemuseum. The Folkemuseum is especially impressive, offering a walk through Norwegian life from the Middle Ages to today. Its open-air grounds include historic buildings from regions across Norway, highlighting everything from rural farm life to city living and different social classes.

One of the highlights is the Gol Stave Church, dating back to around 1200 and one of five medieval buildings on the site. I’ve seen it on past trips, but this time I hoped to catch it with a layer of snow. There was a little, just enough to make the dark wooden “Dragestil” (dragon-style) architecture look even more magical.

The Setesdal farmstead at Norsk Folkemuseum is a typical row farmstead with two homesteads. This is why there are two of most buildings, although some outbuildings are shared between the two homesteads. Adobe Stock/Mirek Nowaczyk

⚓️ We also spent time at the Fram Museum, which houses the Norwegian-built polar ship Fram, the vessel used in three legendary polar expeditions. Launched in 1892 and retired after its final journey in 1914, the ship is beautifully preserved and incredibly immersive to explore.

Walking through the vessel, I was struck by how much larger it felt than expected, yet how compact the living quarters really were. The bunks, kitchen, common room, and engine room are all on display, giving a real sense of what life was like during those multi-year expeditions.

One detail that surprised me was the ship’s ingenuity: a windmill-powered generator supplied electricity for arc lamps, and a 220-horsepower triple-expansion steam engine pushed the vessel along at 6–7 knots in calm seas. It’s an amazing piece of engineering for its time.

The museum also features excellent exhibits on other Norwegian polar explorations, making it a must-visit for anyone curious about Arctic history.

The Norwegian-built polar ship Fram, used in three legendary polar expeditions.

🌊 Norwegians have always had a strong bond with the sea, from the Viking era to Thor Heyerdahl’s bold Kon-Tiki expedition. Before visiting the Kon-Tiki Museum, I could hardly imagine crossing the Pacific on a handmade balsa-wood raft—but seeing the real raft and reading the crew’s story brought it all to life.

In 1947, Heyerdahl set out from Callao, Peru, with a six-man crew (and a parrot!) to prove that ancient peoples could have sailed from South America to Polynesia using only the materials and methods of their time. After 101 days at sea, the Kon-Tiki finally struck a reef in the Tuamotu Archipelago—an incredible testament to human grit, skill, and sheer determination. What an epic journey!

The Ra II in the Kon-Tiki Museum in Oslo. Image used under license from Adobe Stock/Liaurinko

✈️ After our last full day, we turned in our car rental at Oslo's Gardermoen Airport and spent the night at a nearby hotel to enjoy a leisurely dinner before heading to bed. We got up early to catch our early morning flights back to the States.

Of course, I had to stop at the Duty-Free store to pick up a bottle of Linie Aquavit. Why this particular brand of Aquavit? Well, let me tell you a little story about it. Aquavit is a Scandinavian distilled spirit, typically flavored with caraway and/or dill, and often other herbs and spices, and is a traditional part of Nordic culture. It's very similar to a flavored gin. My family always kept it in the freezer. It's the national spirit of Sweden, Norway, and Denmark, often enjoyed during special occasions and holidays. Linie is a brand of Aquavit, and its unique history began in 1805 when the Lysholm family sent a shipment of potato-based aquavit to the East Indies. On its return to Norway, the sea voyage was found to have significantly enhanced its flavor. Since then, every drop of Linie Aquavit has undergone a four-month sea voyage, maturing in sherry oak casks to create its distinctive taste.

On the back label of each bottle, you can find details of its sea voyage, including the date of departure, the date of return after crossing the equator twice, and the ship's name.

Skål!

🧭 Travel Tips

Oslo is a vibrant, historic city that blends great restaurants, fantastic shopping, world-class museums, rich culture, and easy access to skiing—plus summer water activities like canoeing, kayaking, and swimming. It’s a year-round destination with something for every kind of traveler.

I suggest booking your accommodations well in advance.
VRBO is a good choice if you plan to stay outside the park for more than a few days.
Cell phone service is excellent, though you should check with your carrier to see if they have international coverage or just roaming. If not, I suggest looking into e-SIM cards.
In Oslo, electric vehicles dominate thanks to strong incentives and excellent charging infrastructure. EVs now outnumber gas cars and make up nearly all new sales. Charging instructions at street-side EV stations are often only in Norwegian, while hotels and dedicated fuel/charging stations provide instructions in both Norwegian and English.
visitacity is an excellent website for exploring Oslo’s attractions, tours, and sightseeing options. It includes an easy-to-use map with tour pricing, and for budget-minded travelers, it’s also perfect for simply seeing where all the main sights are located.
The Oslo Metro, or T-Bane, is the quickest way to get around the city and a dedicated line to the airport.
To get Oslo tram schedules, use the official Ruter app or website (ruter.no), which provides real-time departures, route planning, and ticketing for trams ("trikken"), metro, buses, and ferries in Oslo and Akershus. Trams run frequently, especially on weekdays in the city center, with varying frequencies on weekends and later at night, typically starting early morning until around midnight. Purchasing tickets can be a bit tricky, so follow the instructions carefully. How to Find Schedules & Plan Trips:

Download the Ruter App: The easiest way for real-time info and tickets.
Visit Ruter.no: Use their website for trip planning and schedules.
Check Frequencies: Expect frequent service (every 5-10 mins) during peak weekday hours, less frequent (every 30 mins) evenings/weekends, according to Introducing Oslo.

🍽️ 🛍️ Restaurants and Shopping

Oslo offers a wide range of dining, from gourmet restaurants to traditional Norwegian fare and lively food halls like Mathallen. The city is also a shopper’s paradise, with everything from Scandinavian design and Sami crafts to souvenirs along Karl Johans gate as well as high-end luxury, around malls like Oslo City and Paleet, and in charming specialty shops. Don't forget looking at some Dale sweaters, and who doesn't want to take home a little Norwegian troll? 😂

For a guide to shopping in Oslo, VisitOslo is a great website that highlights everything from local boutiques and designer stores to markets and malls, helping you plan the perfect shopping itinerary.
Google offers a handy map of dining options throughout Oslo, making it easy to find everything from local favorites to gourmet restaurants. Check it out here.
Here’s another handy Google map, this time showing shops along Oslo’s bustling Karl Johans Gate.
🇳🇴 As a tourist in Norway, most goods and services include a Value Added Tax (VAT). You can claim a refund on eligible purchases when leaving the country, but it can be a bit tricky—make sure to get a receipt for everything. Food and services aren’t VAT-free; instead, they’re subject to reduced VAT rates compared to the standard rate. Norway uses a tiered VAT system rather than offering a general exemption. For more details, check out this helpful guide: Shopping in Norway – VAT for Tourists.
🍻 Oslo has a thriving craft beer scene, with breweries and brewpubs scattered throughout the city. From small microbreweries to larger, well-known names, there’s something for every beer lover. Many breweries focus on traditional Norwegian styles, while others experiment with international and seasonal flavors. VisitOslo is an excellent website for exploring all of Oslo’s craft beer options.

Footnotes

Hey there! Just a little note: all the photos and videos you see here are my own, unless I mention otherwise in the caption. I love sharing my travel stories, photographs, and tips with you. I hope you find some new places to explore! You may also find some of my watercolor art sprinkled in, and if you’re interested, there are links to purchase my prints, as well as equipment recommendations. Affiliate disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, I may earn commissions from qualifying purchases from Amazon.