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Yellowstone

Nature at its most dramatic!

By Tom Dorsz

November 28^th, 2025

Aroad trip to Yellowstone National Park is truly as much about the journey as it is about the destination. As the miles unfold, the landscape becomes a tapestry of small towns, scenic overlooks, historic sites, and natural landmarks that practically beg you to stop and explore. From quiet prairie highways and rugged mountain passes to charming main streets and the occasional wildlife sighting, every pause adds its own story to the trip.

Whether you’re stretching your legs in a Western town, taking in a sweeping viewpoint, or detouring to one of the region’s iconic landmarks, the drive becomes a series of discoveries that make arriving at Yellowstone feel even more rewarding.

We began our road trip in Rapid City, South Dakota—an 8–10 hour journey depending on how often curiosity wins out. We mainly followed back roads instead of sticking to the interstate, and surprisingly, it ended up being the shorter route at about 475 miles. To put that into perspective, it’s roughly the same distance as driving from Washington, DC, to Portsmouth, New Hampshire… only stretched across two states instead of seven. And with virtually no traffic and plenty of scenic, interesting stops along the way, the road itself became one of the highlights of our Yellowstone adventure.

Yellowstone

Our first stop was Devils Tower, about an hour outside Rapid City, a landmark that instantly commands your attention.

Rising 867 feet above the Wyoming prairie, Devils Tower feels almost otherworldly—a massive stone monolith with vertical columns so precise they look sculpted. Standing at its base, you can sense the raw power of the place. Geologically, it began as molten rock cooling underground. Over millions of years, the softer surrounding rock eroded away, revealing the dramatic columns that climbers and photographers alike are drawn to.

Devils Tower is more than just geology. It’s a sacred site for many Native American tribes, whose stories tell of children rescued from a giant bear—the creature’s claws leaving the deep grooves we see today. Those legends add a layer of meaning that makes visiting the site feel truly special. And for movie buffs, it’s famously known as the setting of the 1977 film Close Encounters of the Third Kind with Richard Dreyfuss.

Whether you stroll the loop trail, photograph the tower in shifting light, or simply stand in awe of how it rises from the rolling prairie, Devils Tower leaves a lasting impression. It was the perfect first stop on our road trip, and one we won’t soon forget.

Yellowstone

There were plenty of stops along the way, but one in particular stood out before we reached the Yellowstone sign. It was along the North Fork Highway between Cody and Yellowstone, a stretch of road marked by sweeping S-curves that invite you to slow down and take in the scenery.

The view of the North Fork Shoshone River was spectacular. Most of the trees in the area had already lost their leaves, but the aspens along the river remained golden, likely protected from frost by the warmer water. The combination of the winding road, shimmering river, and golden aspens made this stop an absolutely breathtaking view—one I’ll remember long after leaving Yellowstone.

Yellowstone

We finally made it , and—as usual—I kept an eye out for fellow photographers. Sure enough, a small group had gathered at a pull-off, lenses pointed down the hill. When I saw the big guns—600mm and 800mm primes—I knew something exciting was happening. A grizzly was digging on a slope several hundred yards away, just far enough that my modest 500mm didn’t stand a chance.

So instead of shooting, I stayed to watch and chat. The photographers were generous with tips, sharing their favorite spots in the park for finding wildlife. Even without getting the photo, the stop was well worth it.

Yellowstone

We booked three nights at Canyon Lodge inside Yellowstone because we wanted to stay in the park—not spend extra hours driving back and forth from the gateway towns. With so much wildlife on the roads at night, staying close to everything felt like the safest and smartest choice.

Canyon Lodge sits at about 8,000 feet, so it’s noticeably colder here than down by Yellowstone Lake. The complex has two main buildings, and our original reservation placed us in the one without a drive-up canopy, lobby, or restaurant. With snow in the forecast, the thought of hauling luggage across the parking lot—and walking to the other building just to reach the lobby and fireplace—wasn’t exactly appealing.

Luckily, the staff was fantastic and moved us to the main lodge. It made all the difference, especially with winter weather rolling in.

We weren’t thrilled with the food options at the Canyon Village Eatery nearby. The choices were either cafeteria-style or basic bar food. We tried the cafeteria for both breakfast and dinner, but the selections were the same each time—and our meals were already cooling off by the time we sat down. After that, we switched to the bar, which was a much better experience.

We visited during the final week the complex was open, so I can understand if the cafeteria had scaled back its options. The bar, however, didn’t feel limited at all—the food was hot, the menu had a solid variety, and they even had a vegan entrée for Mary. Plus, you could unwind with a cocktail, beer, or wine, which was a nice bonus.

Through it all, the staff at both the restaurant and the lodge were wonderful. They were helpful, friendly, and full of great advice, which made our stay better.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

LOWER LOOP ROAD

Our first full day in Yellowstone took us around the Lower Loop—the bottom half of the park’s big “figure-eight” road system. This section is loaded with many of Yellowstone’s signature sights: erupting geysers, vivid hot springs, roaring waterfalls, wildlife-rich valleys, and some of the most dramatic geothermal landscapes anywhere in the world.

Although the loop is only about 100 miles around, you really need a full day to explore it properly. With all the viewpoints, boardwalks, and wildlife stops, it can easily turn into an 8–10 hour adventure.

The map below is the best I've seen that breaks down the different portions of the park. It's available through the National Park Service Yellowstone-Grand Teton Tear-off Map

Yellowstone

Our first stop along the Lower Loop Road was the Artist Paintpots. It's a unique stop with a Short Loop Trail that's about a mile (1.6 km) long, taking you through a partially burned lodgepole pine forest and across a wet meadow on boardwalks. Along the way, you’ll see Yellowstone’s colorful hydrothermal features, including hot springs, small geysers, and its famous mudpots.

The trail mixes boardwalks and bare-ground paths, with some steps and steeper grades leading to the bubbling mudpots. These acidic clay pits splatter and hiss as gases escape from deep underground, creating their characteristic “rotten egg” smell. Activity varies with the season and recent light snow, made for a frosty view.

Safety Tips: Stay on trails and boardwalks, supervise children, never touch hydrothermal features, and be mindful—Yellowstone is wild, stunning, and potentially dangerous.

The view from Paintpot Hill makes it easy to see why this area is called Artists’ Paintpots.

Steam drifts above the hot springs while the bubbling water winds downhill, shaping little islands in the cooling stream.

Mudpots are one of Yellowstone’s quirkiest geothermal features—bubbling pools of thick, hot mud created where steam, minerals, and just a little water meet.

Our next stop was Oblique Geyser (AKA Avalanche Geyser), followed by Paint Pot Nature Trail, a short, easy loop that showcases some of Yellowstone’s most colorful and lively geothermal features. As you walk, steaming fumaroles, bubbling mudpots, and brilliantly colored hot springs highlight the park’s potent underground activity. Boardwalks wind across the delicate terrain, bringing you close to the natural “paint pots” that inspired the trail’s name.

Bright bands of orange, yellow, and rust-colored bacterial mats surround many of the pools, creating a stunning palette against the blue and gray water. Interpretive signs along the way break down the science behind the heat, minerals, and microbes that shape these unusual landscapes. At just 1 mile (1.6 km), the loop is accessible to most visitors and offers excellent photo opportunities—especially silhouettes drifting through the rising steam.

Along the trail, you’ll come across Yellowstone’s well-known mudpots—steaming, bubbling pools of hot, acidic mud formed where underground heat and minerals mix with microbes and clay. Unlike hot springs, mudpots have very little water, so the clay-rich soil thickens into churning, gurgling mud.

You’ll often smell them before you see them. That classic “rotten egg” scent comes from hydrogen sulfide gas rising from deep within the earth. Microbes convert that gas into sulfuric acid, which breaks down nearby rock into clay and keeps the mud constantly bubbling. It’s nature’s chemistry lab in action—and one of Yellowstone’s most unforgettable features.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

OLD FAITHFUL

Old Faithful had quite a crowd for late October. We visited during the final week that the restaurants and gift shops at the visitor area were still open, just before the seasonal shutdown. While the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center stays open most of the winter, its schedule is limited—typically 9 AM to 5 PM from mid-December to mid-March. The center closes twice each year: once from late October to mid-December, and again from mid-March until April 18.

Yellowstone

Winter access is another story. Most of Yellowstone’s roads are closed to regular vehicles once the snow arrives, so reaching Old Faithful in the colder months requires an oversnow vehicle, such as a snowcoach or snowmobile. Exact opening dates can shift with the weather, so it’s always smart to check conditions and hours before planning a winter visit.

From the National Park Service: "Old Faithful was once called “Eternity’s Timepiece” because of the regularity of its eruptions. However, this geyser never erupts at exact hourly intervals as many believe."

Geyser prediction times are posted through several sources, but keep in mind they’re not available when the Old Faithful Visitor Education Center is closed—typically from early November to mid-December and again from mid-March to mid-April.

Download the free NPS app on iTunes or Google Play.
Contact the National Park Service by phone for a recorded message with current predictions.
Visit the Geyser Times website.

GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE

The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone is one of the park’s most breathtaking landmarks—a sweeping, colorful gorge carved by the Yellowstone River. From Canyon Village, we drove east along the Grand Loop Road, then followed the North Rim Drive, a one-way road lined with several pullouts that offer incredible views into the canyon. Each stop seemed better than the last.

The canyon stretches for roughly 20 miles, with walls dropping up to 1,200 feet and glowing in shades of gold, peach, and rust—colors created by hydrothermally altered rock. Two major waterfalls define the landscape here: the Upper Falls, a thundering 109-foot drop, and the Lower Falls, an even more dramatic 308-foot plunge that fills the canyon with mist.

North Rim Drive is packed with must-see viewpoints, including Lookout Point, Grand View, and Inspiration Point—each offering its own unforgettable angle of the canyon and each offering a different perspective of the river winding far below. It’s a place where the scale feels immense, the colors look almost painted, and every stop along the rim delivers a new, unforgettable panorama.

In the photo below, the steam vent along the canyon wall is a fumarole—one of Yellowstone’s hottest geothermal features. These vents can reach temperatures up to 280°F (about 138°C). Because fumaroles sit high above the water table, they get very little groundwater to cool them, so they release mostly steam and gas, creating that intense, hissing plume you see.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

WILDLIFE

We had hoped to visit Lamar Valley, famously called “America’s Serengeti” for good reason—its vast, open landscapes are home to bison, bears, wolves, and countless other wildlife. The valley is typically accessed via Highway 212 through the park’s northeast entrance. Unfortunately, the road from Canyon Village was closed during our visit, and reaching it would have added a three- to four-hour round-trip drive. With time running short, we had to skip it this trip—but it’s definitely on our list for next time. Missing it was a real disappointment!

Even so, Yellowstone still delivered. Our favorite place to spot wildlife turned out to be the lower section of the Grand Loop Road between Canyon Village and Yellowstone Lake. This stretch follows the Yellowstone River, a natural corridor where animals come to graze and drink. Along this route, we went through Hayden Valley, where we saw bison, caribou, and even a Great Grey Owl, one of the highlights of our trip. It’s an easy drive with an impressive payoff if you’re hoping to see wildlife.

BISON—If you spend enough time watching Yellowstone’s bison, you start to notice how structured their world really is. Bulls usually live apart from the main herds, either roaming solo or gathering in small bachelor groups of up to 30 individuals. Females, meanwhile, stay in maternal herds with their calves and younger offspring. For most of the year, these groups remain separate, only coming together during the breeding season in spring and again in fall—right around the time we were visiting in October. At other times, they may briefly mix when food or water is scarce.

Both male and female herds have clear dominance hierarchies. A bison’s rank is often tied to age and birth order, with older animals typically holding higher status. Among bulls, one dominant male usually emerges, asserting himself through deep growls, grunts, and broad, imposing postures.

Mature bulls are truly impressive—standing around six feet tall and weighing between 1,800 and 2,400 pounds. Despite their immense size, they can move quickly and powerfully, especially during the heightened competition of the breeding season. Watching these social dynamics unfold adds an entirely new layer of appreciation for Yellowstone’s iconic wildlife.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Great Grey Owl—I spotted a cluster of cars and photographers pulled over along the road—they’d found the owl, completely unfazed by all the attention. This ghostly predator favors dense coniferous or mixed forests for shelter but hunts in nearby meadows, bogs, and open areas where rodents abound. Its range spans the remote northern boreal forests of North America and Eurasia.

North America’s longest owl, the Great Grey can have a wingspan of up to five feet, yet it’s surprisingly light for its size. Its enormous, round head is framed by a bold facial disk with a distinctive white “bow tie” on the chin, and its piercing yellow eyes and gray-and-white streaked plumage give it an almost spectral presence in the forest. Spotting it in the wild is a rare and unforgettable experience—a glimpse of true northern wilderness in motion.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Elk & Deer — You can’t spend long in Yellowstone without running into its most iconic residents: elk—or wapiti, a Shawnee word meaning “white rump.” Many Plains and Rocky Mountain tribes use this name, and once you notice the elk’s pale hindquarters, the meaning clicks instantly.

In summer, Yellowstone’s valleys and meadows fill with an incredible 10,000–20,000 elk from multiple herds. By winter, most of them head to lower elevations outside the park, but during the warmer months, they are everywhere—grazing, bugling, wading through rivers, or simply posing like they know they’re the stars of the show. They’re not just beautiful to watch; they’re essential to the ecosystem. Elk make up roughly 85% of winter wolf kills and are a critical food source for bears, mountain lions, coyotes, bald eagles, and more than a dozen scavengers.

The park is also home to two deer species: mule deer and white-tailed deer. Mule deer—often called black-tailed deer—are the ones you’re most likely to see. White-tailed deer are around too, though less common and a bit more elusive.

Together, elk and deer bring Yellowstone’s landscapes to life. These animals aren’t just iconic—Yellowstone’s ecosystem depends on them.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS

Yellowstone

We were up early and on the road after breakfast, taking the upper portion of the Grand Loop Road from Canyon Village toward Mammoth Hot Springs via the Norris Canyon cutoff. The route winds through higher elevations, and we hit patches of light snow and ice—nothing major, but enough to keep us slow and cautious. Even so, the drive is lined with great pullouts, and we stopped at several of them.

One of them was Roaring Mountain, a slope covered in countless fumaroles—steaming vents that hiss and release heat from deep underground. These are the hottest hydrothermal features in Yellowstone, and on a cold morning, they’re especially dramatic, sending thick plumes of steam drifting across the mountainside. Once we reached Mammoth Hot Springs, we parked and explored the boardwalk system that winds around and above the terraces. The steaming travertine formations are constantly changing, building, and flowing, and every turn gives you a different angle on their colors and textures. You can also drive the one-way loop around the Upper Terraces, and in winter, the area becomes a quiet wonderland for skiing and snowshoeing—though the sulfur scent still follows you.

We chose to climb the boardwalks all the way to the top, which is a serious uphill trek and not ideal for anyone with health concerns. When we finally reached the upper level, we were surprised to find a parking lot—we could’ve driven straight there! But honestly, walking up meant we didn’t miss any of the terraces, and the views along the way were worth every step.

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

Yellowstone

ROOSEVELT ARCH

Our last stop in Yellowstone was the iconic Roosevelt Arch at the North Entrance—a perfect finale to an unforgettable trip. We grabbed lunch in nearby Gardiner, Montana, and even had one of those “Northern Exposure” moments when an elk wandered casually down the sidewalk outside the restaurant window. The town is a great place to stay outside of the park with hotels, restaurants, and quite a few vacation rentals.

Looking back, our three days in Yellowstone went by in a blur of wildlife sightings, sweeping scenery, and the incredible geologic features that make this park so unique. Geysers erupting, multi-colored hot springs, mudpots, and steam drifting across the hillsides all reminded us that Yellowstone is very much alive beneath the surface.

Yellowstone

Despite its reputation, Yellowstone isn’t a volcano on the edge of an eruption. Scientists monitor it closely, and research shows a system that’s active and ever-changing, yet stable. Seeing it firsthand makes the science—and the landscape—come alive in a way that stays with you long after you’ve left.

One final tip: go in the off-season if you can. I’ve talked to people who visited in summer, and they described enormous crowds—buses, campers, minivans, and long lines at nearly every stop. Our quieter visit made it easier to enjoy the scenery and wildlife without the congestion.

It was a whirlwind trip—but one that left a lasting impression, and it’s a destination you truly have to see to appreciate.

Yellowstone

🧭 Travel Tips

The off-season is one of the best times to visit Yellowstone — fewer crowds, quieter trails, and a more peaceful experience overall. Just don’t wait too long, though — many park roads and facilities begin closing in late October as winter sets in.
VRBO is a good choice if you plan to stay outside the park for more than a few days.
Cell phone service is spotty.
Use or get a National Park pass.
Yellowstone National Park website; and Map & NPS App
Road Conditions and Closures
Google Map of the park.
Be sure to keep your gas tank topped off — towns around the park are spread out, and fuel stations can be few and far between and pricey.
Many businesses and lodges close outside of the tourist season (Late October through May).
Suggest booking your accommodations well in advance.
One of the best parts of being in the wild is spotting animals in their natural habitats. I always keep a safe distance, especially at dawn or dusk when they’re most active. Road Trip Locals has an excellent blog of different places to see wildlife in Yellowstone, making it easy to plan your own adventure.
Be sure to factor in where you’re heading in the park and how far you plan to drive—especially when it comes to daylight. Wildlife is much harder to spot (and avoid) after dark, so planning your route with sunrise and sunset in mind makes for a safer, smoother visit.
Photography tips from the National Park Service
Yellowstone Grizzly RV Park offers some excellent tips on the best spots to capture sunrise and sunset.
Fly fishing in Yellowstone is a thrilling experience, with over 2,000 miles of rivers and streams to explore. Top spots include the Lamar, Yellowstone, and Firehole Rivers, and Slough Creek, with early mornings and late evenings offering the best chances to catch fish. National Park Permits and Information

🍽️ 🛍️ 🎣 Restaurants and Stores

A range of shops and dining options is available throughout the park, from full-service restaurants and casual cafeterias to snack bars, coffee counters, ice-cream counters, and gift shops to pick up souvenirs. Most are located in or near the park’s lodges, making it easy to grab a meal as you explore. If you choose to stay outside Yellowstone, the gateway towns offer plenty of great options. West Yellowstone, Gardiner, Cooke City–Silver Gate, and Cody all have a mix of hotels, motels, cabins, and vacation rentals, plus lots of restaurants, cafés, and shops. It’s often easier to find availability and a wider range of dining choices while still being just minutes from the park.

Food and Dining Options in the park (NPS).
Food and Dining Options outside of the park (Google)
Yellowstone offers a wide range of lodging options to match every type of trip—from rustic campgrounds to historic lodges and cozy cabins. Campers can choose from several front-country and backcountry sites, while those looking for more comfort will find classic park lodges and cabin-style accommodations scattered throughout the main villages. Whether you prefer sleeping under the stars or having a warm bed steps from the geysers, there’s a spot in the park that fits your style.

Footnotes

Hey there! Just a little note: all the photos and videos you see here are my own, unless I mention otherwise in the caption. I love sharing my travel stories, photographs, and tips with you. I hope you find some new places to explore! You’ll also find some of my watercolor art sprinkled in, and if you’re interested, there are links to purchase my prints, as well as equipment recommendations. Affiliate disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases from Amazon.

References:

© 2026 Tom Dorsz

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