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The Black Hills

South Dakota and Wyoming

By Tom Dorsz

November 7^th, 2025

My wife Pat, her sister Mary, and I made the six-hour drive from Denver to Rapid City, winding our way into the scenic Black Hills. Rather than stick to the main highways, we opted for a more relaxed route and took the back roads — which led us to an unexpected roadside gem: Carhenge in Alliance, Nebraska. This quirky recreation of Stonehenge made entirely from vintage cars was a fun and memorable stop, adding a little extra adventure to our road trip before we reached the Black Hills.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

I booked a VRBO in Rapid City for the week, using it as our home base while exploring the many wonders of this rugged “island” rising from the Northern Great Plains. The Black Hills are a place where ancient geology meets living history — shaped by time, story, and spirit. The Lakota, who still claim these sacred lands and have famously refused government compensation for them, share profound legends about their origins. To the Lakota, the story of how the Black Hills were created is more than myth — it’s a spiritual tapestry that weaves together their identity, heritage, and deep connection to the land.

"All the animals and birds gathered at a place called Buffalo Gap to participate, painting their bodies in the colors they have today for the event. The buffalo chose their fastest runner, a young cow named Running Slim Buffalo Woman, who was known to be unbeatable. The humans chose several fast birds, including the swift hawk, crow, magpie, and eagle, to run for them.

As the race began, Running Slim took an early, commanding lead, with the other animals and most birds following her. Many animals fell from exhaustion as the race continued over a long course.

Just as Running Slim was about to cross the finish line, the lowly magpie, who had been flying very high and steadily throughout the race, suddenly plunged from the sky and shot ahead, crossing the finish line just a hand's breadth before her.

Thanks to the magpie's determination, the humans won the race. The Great Spirit (Wakan Tanka) declared the result fair, establishing that from that day forward, humans would hunt the buffalo for food and have power over all the other animals. The people have respected the magpie ever since and never hunt it." Google AI.

Taking the backroads on our way to Custer State Park, we came across a small herd of Scottish Highland cattle — their shaggy coats and long horns made for an unforgettable roadside sight.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

CUSTER STATE PARK

Custer State Park is a landscape that leaves an impression long after you’ve driven through it. Spanning 71,000 acres, it’s one of the largest state parks in the United States — a sweeping mix of rugged granite peaks, rolling grasslands, and pine-covered hills that define the beauty of the Black Hills region.

The park sits within the heart of the Black Hills, a vast, elliptical dome of ancient rock rising from the plains of South Dakota and Wyoming stretching roughly 125 miles long and 65 miles wide. Over millions of years, erosion exposed the granite, sculpting dramatic peaks and spires that now tower 3,000 to 4,000 feet above the surrounding prairie. Black Elk Peak, at 7,242 feet, stands as the highest point in South Dakota.

The Black Hills’ striking formations are the result of natural fractures in the rock, which guided erosion and shaped the scenery we see today. In areas like the Needles, closely spaced joints created sharp spires and thin stone fins. Near Sylvan Lake, wider rock fractures formed smooth, rounded granite domes that seem to glow in the afternoon light.

Just beyond the park, the faces of four U.S. presidents gaze out from the granite heights of Mount Rushmore, while the nearby Crazy Horse Memorial stands as a modern tribute to Native American heritage — both monuments etched into a landscape shaped by time and history.

Custer State Park isn’t just a place to explore — it’s a place to feel the history of the earth beneath your feet, to witness wildlife thrive in its natural world, and to stand in awe of the natural forces that created this remarkable corner of the American West.

The Needles in Custer State Park. Adobe/Mihai Andritoiu

Wildlife roams freely here, and you’re almost guaranteed to encounter some of the park’s residents: pronghorn antelope grazing in open meadows, elk moving quietly through the trees, nimble mountain goats perched on rocky ledges, and of course the famous “begging burros” who have charmed generations of visitors along Wildlife Loop Road. Even the prairie dogs have their own little town, chirping and popping in and out of their burrows like curious neighbors.

The Black Hills

The famous “begging burros” of Custer State Park roam freely along the Wildlife Loop Road in South Dakota, often wandering right up to cars in hopes of a snack. Not so much here. It's siesta time.

The Black Hills

Yes — she’s sound asleep. All that begging can really wear a burro out! 💤

The Black Hills

The prairie dog town in Custer State Park sits just down the road from the famous begging burros. These lively little creatures pop in and out of their burrows, squeaking their protests at the towering human “giants” who stop to watch and laugh in amusement. It’s a fun and endearing stop where the Black Hills’ smallest residents steal the show.

The Black Hills

MOUNT RUSHMORE

Mount Rushmore is an incredible experience — from the towering granite faces to the grand walkway leading up to them. Visiting in October is especially rewarding, with cooler weather, fewer crowds, and a peaceful atmosphere that lets you truly appreciate the monument’s scale and setting. The Grand View Terrace is the main viewing area at Mount Rushmore, offering breathtaking, unobstructed views of the monument. It’s the perfect place to sit and take in the majesty of the carvings while appreciating the sheer scale of this national treasure. We were lucky enough to grab seats in the front row—an unforgettable vantage point to admire the presidents up close.

The story of Mount Rushmore began in 1923, when South Dakota historian Doane Robinson proposed carving figures into the Black Hills to attract tourists. His original idea featured famous figures of the American West, but sculptor Gutzon Borglum reimagined the project to honor four U.S. presidents — George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln — as symbols of the nation’s founding, growth, and preservation. Construction took place from 1927 to 1941, with about 400 workers using dynamite and precision tools to shape the granite. After Borglum’s death, his son Lincoln oversaw the final work, bringing one of America’s most iconic monuments to life.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

CRAZY HORSE

The Crazy Horse Memorial® rises powerfully from the granite of the Black Hills — a monumental tribute to Native American history and culture. Still a work in progress, this massive mountain carving honors the legacy of the legendary Lakota leader Crazy Horse, a symbol of courage, resilience, and the enduring spirit of Indigenous peoples.

Begun in 1948 and continuing to take shape today, the memorial stands as one of the world’s most ambitious artistic undertakings. More than just a sculpture, it is part of a broader effort to celebrate Native American heritage through education, storytelling, and cultural preservation.

Visitors can explore the Indian Museum of North America®, watch ongoing construction from viewing areas, and immerse themselves in exhibits that highlight the traditions, achievements, and living cultures of Native nations. Whether witnessing the scale of the carving or learning from the voices and history represented here, the Crazy Horse Memorial offers a powerful and meaningful experience for all ages — a space where the past and present meet in honor and remembrance.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

BEAR BUTTE

Rising at the northeastern edge of the Black Hills, Bear Butte is a striking natural landmark — a laccolith, or the hardened core of a volcano that never erupted. Despite its name, it isn’t a true butte but rather the exposed remains of ancient volcanic activity shaped by erosion over millions of years.

Beyond its geological wonder, Bear Butte (known as Mato Paha to the Lakota and Noahvose to the Cheyenne) holds profound spiritual significance for many Native American tribes. It remains an active place of prayer, reflection, and ceremony — a sacred site comparable to a church or Mecca. Visitors often see colorful prayer bundles tied to trees and shrubs, left as offerings during spiritual rituals.

Bear Butte also played a key role in history. Before the Battle of the Little Bighorn (also known as the Battle of Greasy Grass) in 1876, Sitting Bull held ceremonies and had a prophetic vision here while the Sioux and Cheyenne camps gathered nearby. The butte became a powerful rallying point for resistance, symbolizing unity and strength during one of the most pivotal moments in Native American history.

The Black Hills

Adding to the mystique of this unerupted volcano are the colorful prayer offerings tied to the trees and the abundance of wildlife that call the area home. Bear Butte has an almost magnetic presence — even the clouds seem drawn to it, often circling its summit as if in quiet reverence.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

DEADWOOD

Of course, no visit to the Black Hills would be complete without a stop in Deadwood. Once a rough-and-tumble mining camp, it’s now a lively mix of history and entertainment — packed with bars, restaurants, and casinos.

Rumor has it that the tradition of scattering sawdust on saloon floors began right here in Deadwood. Some say it was to hide the gold dust that slipped from miners’ pockets, swept up at the end of the night for a little extra profit. Others claim it served a more practical purpose — soaking up blood from the frequent bar fights and gunfights that once defined this Wild West town. Either way, the sawdust floors feel perfectly fitting for Deadwood’s rough-and-tumble past. This famous Wild West town remains one of the region’s most popular attractions.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

STURGIS

No trip to the Black Hills would be complete without a stop in Sturgis. Of course, the city is best known for its world-famous Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, which draws thousands of riders and enthusiasts every August for one of the biggest biker events in the world. It’s a lot calmer now than when I last visited in the 1980s—especially during the off-season.

A word of caution if you plan to visit during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally — or anytime you’re exploring the Black Hills, especially by motorcycle.

Wildlife safety: Always keep your distance from bison, especially cows with calves, around Bear Butte or Custer State Park. These animals may look calm, but they can be unpredictable and dangerous when approached too closely.

Road conditions: The Black Hills’ scenic roads are stunning but can be challenging — particularly for motorcyclists. Many routes have narrow lanes, no shoulders, sharp blind corners, and steep drop-offs. Loose gravel or dirt near the edges can cause a loss of traction, especially in turns. During the rally, traffic increases dramatically, reducing reaction time and making roads even more congested. If you’re not used to mountain or curvy roads, take it slow and ride with extra caution. The Black Hills are breathtaking — but they demand respect from every rider and driver.

We didn’t stay overnight in the area, so unfortunately, I can’t offer any personal recommendations for lodging or dining in Sturgis.

The Black Hills

The Black Hills

We truly loved our time in the Black Hills — there’s so much to explore that we could have easily stayed a month and still not seen it all. I’m so glad I returned after 30 years; it was just as beautiful and fascinating as I remembered. Rapid City wasn’t as built up as I expected, either — it’s still a charming small city with a lot to offer!

Travel Tips

The off-season is the best time to visit the Black Hills, as it's less crowded.
We used VRBO to rent a house in Rapid City.
We spent a week in Rapid City, but honestly, we could have stayed a month and still not seen everything this incredible area has to offer.
Cell phone service, we switched to TMobile. AT&T just didn't cut it.
Use your National Park pass (Mt Rushmore).
We purchased a 3 day pass for state parks such as Custer State Park.
Be sure to fill up your gas tank before leaving Rapid City — towns in the area are spread out, and fuel stops can be few and far between and very expensive.
Quite a few good restaurants in the area (Rapid, Hill City, Deadwood), though some can be pricey.
Many businesses close outside of the tourist season.
Rapid City has a regional airport. Costs between BWI and Rapid City were only $10 more for a round-trip flight than Denver, Colorado (2025)
We booked accommodations in advance.
The Badlands lie about 50 miles east of the Black Hills and are absolutely worth the drive—especially if you enjoy hiking and dramatic landscapes.

Restaurants and stores we enjoyed:

Prairie Edge in Rapid City is a fantastic gallery and store that showcases the work of Northern Plains Indian artists, offering them a fair outlet to share and sell their finest creations.
The Journey Museum & Learning Center: Covers the history of the Black Hills, from its geology and paleontology to Native American culture and pioneer settlement.
Kathmandu Bistro offers delicious Indian and Nepalese cuisine in a warm, inviting atmosphere — a perfect spot for a flavorful meal in Rapid City.
Essence of Coffee serves all kinds of creative coffee drinks and fresh-baked treats including some delicious scones. Hours 6:30 to 2 pm.
Family Fare Grocery Store is an excellent place to stock up on food and supplies. We shopped at the location on 751 Mountain View Rd, and it had everything we needed for the week.
Deadwood Mountain Grand Hotel and Casino
Saloon No. 10, Deadwood

We truly loved our time in the Black Hills — there’s so much to explore that we could have easily stayed a month and still not seen it all. I’m so glad I returned after 30 years; it was just as beautiful and fascinating as I remembered. Rapid City wasn’t as built up as I expected either — it’s still a charming small city with a whole lot to offer!

Footnotes

Hey there! Just a little note: all the photos and videos you see here are my own, unless I mention otherwise in the caption. I love sharing my travel stories, photographs, and tips with you. You’ll also find some of my watercolor art sprinkled in, and if you’re interested, there are links to purchase my prints, as well as equipment recommendations. Affiliate disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases from Amazon. I hope you find some new places to explore!

FootNotes

Hey there! Just a little note: all the photos and videos you see here are my own, unless I mention otherwise in the caption. I love sharing my travel stories, photographs, and tips with you. You’ll also find some of my watercolor art sprinkled in, and if you’re interested, there are links to purchase my prints, as well as equipment recommendations. Affiliate disclosure: As an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases from Amazon. I hope you find some new places to explore!

© 2026 Tom Dorsz

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